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FIRST REPORT FROM BRUSSELS BELGIUM
ANGELA BRUCE-RAEBURN, 11.10.2004

I arrived in Belgium on August 23rd to begin my scholarship at the Katholieke Universiteit in Leuven. Belgium is a county of two very distinct languages and cultures. It was fascinating to me to read about the deep language divisions that have created two societies in a country of about 10 million people. The compromise to avoid a language and culture war was to create a federal government comprising of three regions- Flanders is the Flemish/Dutch speaking area. Walloonia is the French speaking area of the country and Brussels is mandated to be bi­lingual. Every sign, document, advertisement have to be in both languages in Brussels. Each of these 3 regions has their own government, police, transportation and school systems which then meets, at the federal level. However, partisan interests based on the Walloon and Flemish relationship makes for a tense political environment.

The language and culture difference was put into perspective with my choice of university in Belgium. I am currently attending Katholieke Universiteit Leuven (Catholic University of Leuven), which is located in the Flemish area and considered to be the largest Flemish university. However, there is another university here in Belgium called Catholique Universite Louvain-La Neuve (which means Catholic University of Louvain-The New) The reason it is named Louvain La Neuve was to distinguish it from the Flemish KU-Leuven. Apparently, in 1971, politics and dissent over a francophone university being in a Flemish area caused the school to move with the Dutch speaking university remaining in Leuven and the French speaking faculty moved to a town symbolically called Louvain Ia Neuve. (Louvain —The New)

I visited the home of Rotarian Michel Peeters who spoke both Flemish and French. We conversed in French as he is able to understand English but does not speak fluently. I found it difficult to imagine a country like the United States making this type of compromise simply because of the sheer size of the country. At first, I was thinking that it certainly is a sure road to civil war or civil disruption, after all both groups are divided along language lines and almost all political discussion is viewed from either the Flemish or Walloon standpoint. The divisions run deep and are historic in nature and can be felt depending on where you live. For example, if you live in Flanders all public schools are in Flemish. If you live in Wallonia, then all public schools are in French. If you live in Brussels-then it is more likely that the school will be French but that will depend on the commune that you live in. Brussels is a part of 19 communes, which are like towns each with its own schools, language (either French or Dutch) police, and city hall.

KU Leuven is a large university even by American standards with approximately 29,000 students. The school is building a reputation for itself in Europe with distinguished English language programs. I started classes about 2 months ago following course work in the Master of Conflict and Sustainable Peace. The courses range from Ethics to Human Rights Law. This semester I have 5 classes, which I am enjoying as they all relate to the questions of peace war, terrorism and the future. The town of Leuven itself is not very big and is extremely biker friendly. As a matter of fact the bikes rule the road and the cars have to wait. I have been debating getting a bike but I am not sure if I can keep up with the biker champions that flood the street each day. The town is quite lively and is geared to the student, however, last week Friday I witnessed a massive exodus of students walking in a procession (sort of) to the train station. I was told that the town is a ghost town during the weekend because the majority of the students go home for the weekends. This surprised me but they go home to do laundry and eat the food since the cafeteria has a scary reputation.

Belgium like many countries in Europe has a national identification card for all its citizens. When you move to a commune (town), you must register at the city hall. Even if you move from one apartment in the same building to another apartment you have to notify the commune. As a foreign student, I was obliged to contact the commune within 3 days of my arrival in the country. I did this promptly and was told that the police would come to verify that I did in fact live at the address that I gave to the city hall. At first, I thought that they were joking about the police but I was wrong. On my first Sunday in Brussels I was awakened at 8:00 am by the doorbell. I was quite tired but I was immediately awake when I opened the door to two very serious looking policemen. The policemen came in and looked around the apartment, asked some questions about me, looked at my passport and then gave me an appointment to go to the commune.

Brussels is somewhat understated as the home of the European union. While the city does not have some of the charms of other European cities like Paris or Madrid there is an understated elegance. I went to the Grand Place-Oude Markt (In Flemish) which is a magnificent square surrounded by ancient buildings  Brussels is also home to the African Museum dedicated to history of African people who were once colonized by Belgium like Congo-Kinshasa and Rwanda. One of the most famous monuments is of course Mannequin Pis  which is known through out the world as the “peeing boy”. The history of the statue is somewhat sketchy however the legend or myth has it that a boy was the son of a duke in the 12th century who was caught urinating on the side of the tree in the midst of a battle and was thus commemorated in Bronze as a symbol of the country’s military courage.

What many people may not know is that Mannequin Pis is not always naked. Around his birthday the tradition is to dress him in clothes. In September, he was clothed the entire month with various clothes from other cultures. Apparently, visiting officials from other countries bring traditional clothes for Mannequin Pis.

Naturally, as the only American in the program I am frequently asked about national politics at home in the US. I think socially and culturally this is a huge divisive issue. Many of the professors and students refer to the US when they speak of terrorism, imperialism and the questions of ethics, peace and war. Many of them said that they respected the United States for what it represented and especially with respect to World War II and the American liberation of many European nations from Germany but they felt that our country was going in the wrong direction. I did not consider these discussions disconcerting or problematic. As a student of peace studies I believe that we have to create peace and that war is always the worst option. It is my core belief that alleviating world poverty through education of children, forgiving debtor countries from loans, cooperation with developed nations, and concerted aids education is important to sustainable peace building. Both my classmates as well as the teachers met the re-election of President Bush with dismay. A lot of the conversation centered on European Union —American relations. There was a real question about re-building the transatlantic relationship and many wondered about how to live in a world with the most powerful nation on earth. Many of the academics here share the hope of a more powerful European Union to balance against the US.

I think one of the most important preparation activities done with the home sponsor is a discussion of political questions. I met with my home sponsor in California, Ellen Dunbar, and we talked about how to respond to sensitive and political questions. As an American in Europe at this time it was a valuable discussion. In academia, many people have some strong opinions about the US and its place in the world. More specifically about President Bush and his administration. As a Rotary Ambassador it was important to get a perspective on how to respond to some very pointed questions especially when asked about your own personal thoughts, opinions and affiliations. Recognizing that I am here because of Rotary and wanting to respond as an Ambassador would in these situations.

On Tuesday October 5th, I attended the Rotary Club meeting with Mr. Peeters. Of all the things that shocked me in Belgium was the fact that the Rotary Club in Leuven is for men. I walked in the room with Mr. Peeters, and I thought it strange that there were no women present in the room. At first I thought it was because the meeting had not begun and everyone had not arrived. I was wrong. There are no women in the club. I asked the President whose name is Theo Mineur if this was normal and if it was how could they get away with it? He explained that it is not that women cannot join but that this particular Rotary club is about seventy years old and they are able to retain their status. However, newer clubs cannot be formed without women members. I was curious about this so during dinner I sat next to President Mineur of the club. I asked him if there were women who wanted to be in Rotary but could not because perhaps the men preferred the status as it were. He told me no. He said that women would be welcome it’s just that there are not many women who are interested. He also said that there were other clubs in Belgium for women only. This was strange to me, as I know many female Rotarians who are quite active in Rotary and other organizations. I gave a 3-minute presentation at that meeting about Modesto, California and Rotary’s contribution to my education and future plans. I am scheduled to visit other Rotary clubs in Leuven as well as Brussels but it looks as though it won’t be until January. I am also attending a luncheon on Saturday November 13th for Rotary Scholars in the area.

I have started the research for my thesis, which is entitled, An Analysis and Evaluation of the Contemporary Explanations of the Rwanda Genocide. I found a promoter, which is required. A promoter is a faculty member who may have some knowledge about the subject matter and serves as a guide and mentor for ideas as you write the thesis. I thought it best to start now in light of the fact that it is due in June 2005. It may seem far way now but time flies.

Thanking you kindly for your time.

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